The light in the streets of Trastevere at night is almost infra-red, tight alleyways lit by strong overhead lights. The piazzas are full of cautious English tourists with a finger in a guide book, and Romanians and Sri Lankans selling fluorescent whizzing toys. Everyone else noisily eats ice cream and celebrates being in a city where life is warm even at 10pm.

D.'s street is quiet, just wide enough for a small car to pass and has that strange Trastevere feeling of ancient medieval civilisation and 21st century social grit, graffiti over almost every carefully-laid wall. At the end of the street is a small high-up shrine to the Virgin Mary, where a candle flickers day and night.